Jay Sappington: On the Rocks

Thursday, October 2, 2008

On the Rocks

Today I'll treat you to several shots from my (long-ago) visit to Isle des Madeleine, commonly known as Snake Island (though there are no snakes—this name is probably a distortion of a mistranslation of an African word). Madeleine is a tiny island about 20 minutes by motorized pirogue off the western shore of the southern tip of the peninsula that is Dakar.

The next photo is a view of the Pancake Islands. At least, that’s what I call them. They’re actually flat rocks, perhaps 10 yards in diameter, in a small bay next to one of Snake Island’s beaches. (If I’d moved my camera even a smidgen to the left, you would have seen the beginning of the narrow shore whose cliffs lead up to where I was standing.)

I’ve been to Snake Island only once. The real treat for me was seeing and photographing Red-Billed Tropic Birds--beautiful white birds with two, very long tail feathers--in their rock nests. The island is said to be one of the only two places in the world that they breed.

In the air...

...and "on the rocks"

For some additional, nice views of the island, check out the following blog that I discovered recently, put together by a couple (who I do not know) upon visiting Senegal a few years back.

www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/Laura%20JohnInAfrica/page-2.html

Some of My Favorite Films (in alphabetical order)

HOWARD'S END (James Ivory, 1992). British period drama. A stellar adaptation of E. M. Forster's 1910 novel of the same name. The book has two more layers of depth, psychological and sociological, but the movie brilliantly embodies as much of the book as a movie can. It's one of the few films I'm glad I watched before reading the book, because the lavish Merchant Ivory recreation of three social strata in turn-of-the-20th-century England gave me accurate visual images of the era I wouldn't otherwise have had. (Finally available on DVD, this would make a fine Christmas gift . . . for me, for instance.)
IN AMERICA (Jim Sheridan, 2002). Sheridan's semi-autobiographical drama, co-written with his daughter, about a young Irish couple and their two girls, who immigrate illegally to New York hoping to find work. The family’s first ride through NYC at night is such a magical combination of music and images--faces, lights, and reflections--that I wanted to change careers and become a director. Brilliant acting, including by the two young daughters. Unusual narrative device--one theme is largely conveyed via the older daughter's hand-held video. CAUTION: Intense intimate scene that is actually important to the plot.
LION IN WINTER (Anthony Harvey, 1968). [NOTE: Don’t be fooled by imitations. Remakes of this film have been released to bad reviews. I have not seen them and so cannot compare. My comments refer only to the 1968 release.] THE LION IN WINTER is historical fiction, recreating the family squabbles surrounding Henry II’s choice, from among his three sons, of his successor to the throne of England in 1183. Jim Goldman's script, based on his own play of the same name, is hands-down the most arresting and nuanced dialog I've ever heard. The script is enhanced by splendid production values and perfect acting by nearly everyone: Peter O'Toole as Henry II, Anthony Hopkins (in his screen debut) as Richard III, and especially Katharine Hepburn (who I usually don't enjoy) as Henry's out-of-prison-for-Christmas wife, Helen of Aquitaine. The egregious exception is Jane Merrow’s 60s-flowerchild-ish portrayal of Henry’s mistress, Alais (pronounced Alice). The Lion's family is not a nice one, but its machinations are captivating, no matter how many times I watch them.

Weather

Dakar's sub-Saharan climate consists of two seasons.

Dry season (January to June) is characterized by balmy breezes, constant sunshine, and moderate temperatures--vacation-island-dream weather! It's only drawback is the ubiquitous, powdery Saharan dust brought in on the harmattan winds, coating or infiltrating everything not stored in an air-tight bag.

Rainy season (July through December) hardly lives up to its name. While the southern portion of the country receives enough rainfall to support cultivation of rice as a dietary staple, in Dakar, rain is typically limited to once or twice a week, for perhaps an hour.

Many of our rainy-season storms turn into hurricanes as they cross the Atlantic and head towards the Americas (perhaps the name "Katrina" rings a bell?). I sometimes feel oddly guilty that we've sent such destruction back home.

What Dakar lacks in rain, it makes up for in humidity, which, like the temperature, is often in the 80s.

History

Long ago, Senegal was part of the great, ancient Ghana Empire (unrelated to modern-day Ghana).

In the 17th century, European nations began colonization efforts which would last nearly 300 years. During the latter portion of this period, Senegal was dominated by France.

On June 20, 1960, French Senegal and the former French Sudan combined to create the independent Mali Federation. The Federation ended two months later with the creation of the Republic of Senegal and the Republic of Mali on August 22, 1960. (For reasons I've yet to discover, Senegalese Independence Day is celebrated April 4.)

From 1982 to 1989, Senegal merged with Gambia, the English-speaking nation which it surrounds on three sides, to form Senegambia.

Despite some inter-tribal rivalries, the Senegalese are known for the high priority they place on peace and cooperation. Independence was won peacefully, and has been maintained for nearly 50 years by duly-elected and re-elected presidents, with almost no political violence. Members of the Senegalese military are respected members of UN peace-keeping forces around the world.

Every Tribe and Tongue

Africa's social structure is largely organized along ethnic (tribal) lines. At least 20 tribes, speaking 36 distinct languages, are represented in Senegal's population of 12 million, some 3 million of whom live in the capital city, Dakar. The largest of the tribes are listed below, with estimates of their proportion in the population.

Wolof (WUHL-uhf).............35%
Pulaar (poo-LAHR).............20%
Serer (suh-RAIR)...............17%
Diola (JOE-luh).................10%

The Wolof are present throughout the country, and, while French is the language of government, Wolof is the language used across tribal divisions in business and friendship.

I was told by a Senegalese friend that the country name SENEGAL is derived from "sunu gaal" (SOON-you GAHL), the Wolof words for "my boat." The story goes that, in an early and confused conversation between some Frenchmen and some Wolof fisherman, neither of whom knew the others' language, the Frenchmen asked a question about where they were, and fishermen thought they were asking about their boat.

Jay Sappington

Thursday, October 2, 2008

On the Rocks

Me and the Kapok Tree

Some of My Favorite Films (in alphabetical order)

Blog Archive

About Me

Into Africa

Senegal

Dakar

Weather

History

Every Tribe and Tongue

Copyright Notice

Jay Sappington

Thursday, October 2, 2008

On the Rocks

Me and the Kapok Tree

Some of My Favorite Films (in alphabetical order)

Subscribe to this Blog

Blog Archive

About Me

Into Africa

Senegal

Dakar

Weather

History

Every Tribe and Tongue

Copyright Notice