I rarely travel alone. I prefer to be with people. Especially when traveling--even short distances--in a country whose languages and customs I don't know.
This past Saturday, I spent much of the day downtown by myself. In the morning I visited a Senegalese friend in the hospital. Then I went shopping alone, followed by a long walk and a stop at a small Senegalese restraurant, all time spent "processing" the hospital visit, which included some new cultural experiences and perspectives I had to mull over, in addition to normal emotions associated with facing friends' medical difficulties with them. I decided I need more of these solo trips to begin to really live "in Senegal."
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Reflections on life in Senegal
Me and the Kapok Tree
In the photo above, I'm standing among the roots of a kapok tree, still enormous (the tree, not me) despite the fact that a significant portion of it (rear right) has fallen over. // Fibers from the fruit of the kapok were once used as insulation. Perhaps you remember kapok-filled sleeping bags and parkas? // This photo is from my first trip to Senegal in 2003, and was taken in the village of Niamone [NYAH-mone] in the Cassamance, south of Gambia.
Some of My Favorite Films (in alphabetical order)
- HOWARD'S END (James Ivory, 1992). British period drama. A stellar adaptation of E. M. Forster's 1910 novel of the same name. The book has two more layers of depth, psychological and sociological, but the movie brilliantly embodies as much of the book as a movie can. It's one of the few films I'm glad I watched before reading the book, because the lavish Merchant Ivory recreation of three social strata in turn-of-the-20th-century England gave me accurate visual images of the era I wouldn't otherwise have had. (Finally available on DVD, this would make a fine Christmas gift . . . for me, for instance.)
- IN AMERICA (Jim Sheridan, 2002). Sheridan's semi-autobiographical drama, co-written with his daughter, about a young Irish couple and their two girls, who immigrate illegally to New York hoping to find work. The family’s first ride through NYC at night is such a magical combination of music and images--faces, lights, and reflections--that I wanted to change careers and become a director. Brilliant acting, including by the two young daughters. Unusual narrative device--one theme is largely conveyed via the older daughter's hand-held video. CAUTION: Intense intimate scene that is actually important to the plot.
- LION IN WINTER (Anthony Harvey, 1968). [NOTE: Don’t be fooled by imitations. Remakes of this film have been released to bad reviews. I have not seen them and so cannot compare. My comments refer only to the 1968 release.] THE LION IN WINTER is historical fiction, recreating the family squabbles surrounding Henry II’s choice, from among his three sons, of his successor to the throne of England in 1183. Jim Goldman's script, based on his own play of the same name, is hands-down the most arresting and nuanced dialog I've ever heard. The script is enhanced by splendid production values and perfect acting by nearly everyone: Peter O'Toole as Henry II, Anthony Hopkins (in his screen debut) as Richard III, and especially Katharine Hepburn (who I usually don't enjoy) as Henry's out-of-prison-for-Christmas wife, Helen of Aquitaine. The egregious exception is Jane Merrow’s 60s-flowerchild-ish portrayal of Henry’s mistress, Alais (pronounced Alice). The Lion's family is not a nice one, but its machinations are captivating, no matter how many times I watch them.
Posts
About Me
- Jay and Eileen Sappington
- Jay and Eileen's holiday greetings to family and friends on the occasion of our first Christmas together!
Into Africa
In August of 2003, I moved from a suburb of Washington, DC. to Dakar, Senegal, to teach music at Dakar Academy, an American K-12 school.
Just finishing my 5th year at DA, I consider northern Virginia, Ann Arbor, Michigan, and Dakar--whichever one I'm nearest at the moment--to be "home."
Just finishing my 5th year at DA, I consider northern Virginia, Ann Arbor, Michigan, and Dakar--whichever one I'm nearest at the moment--to be "home."
Senegal
Senegal is on the west coast of Africa, in the Sahel region spanning the southern border of the Sahara desert and the northern edge of the tropical forests. It is slightly smaller than the state of South Dakota.
The April 2008 National Geographic features an aerial shot of Dakar, and a description of the Sahel, including a page or so about Dakar (the current capital) and St. Louis (san loo-EE), the former capital of all French colonial West Africa.
The April 2008 National Geographic features an aerial shot of Dakar, and a description of the Sahel, including a page or so about Dakar (the current capital) and St. Louis (san loo-EE), the former capital of all French colonial West Africa.
NASA photo showing a dust storm coming off the west coast of Mauritania. Dakar, Senegal, is the tiny "hook" at the end of the peninsula at the bottom of the picture.
For technical reasons that I cannot control, the picture is displayed here stretched wider than it should be. The correct proportions are shown in my December 23, 2008 post.
(Satellite image in public domain, from http://www.nasa.gov)Dakar
The capital city of Dakar is situated on a penninsula which forms the western-most point on the continent. About 3 million people live here, though (except for the number of taxis) you'd never guess it.
One of the city's assests is its beautiful coastline of small beaches alternating with rough cliffs, often formed of black volcanic rock.
One of the city's assests is its beautiful coastline of small beaches alternating with rough cliffs, often formed of black volcanic rock.
Weather
Dakar's sub-Saharan climate consists of two seasons.
Dry season (January to June) is characterized by balmy breezes, constant sunshine, and moderate temperatures--vacation-island-dream weather! It's only drawback is the ubiquitous, powdery Saharan dust brought in on the harmattan winds, coating or infiltrating everything not stored in an air-tight bag.
Rainy season (July through December) hardly lives up to its name. While the southern portion of the country receives enough rainfall to support cultivation of rice as a dietary staple, in Dakar, rain is typically limited to once or twice a week, for perhaps an hour.
Many of our rainy-season storms turn into hurricanes as they cross the Atlantic and head towards the Americas (perhaps the name "Katrina" rings a bell?). I sometimes feel oddly guilty that we've sent such destruction back home.
What Dakar lacks in rain, it makes up for in humidity, which, like the temperature, is often in the 80s.
Dry season (January to June) is characterized by balmy breezes, constant sunshine, and moderate temperatures--vacation-island-dream weather! It's only drawback is the ubiquitous, powdery Saharan dust brought in on the harmattan winds, coating or infiltrating everything not stored in an air-tight bag.
Rainy season (July through December) hardly lives up to its name. While the southern portion of the country receives enough rainfall to support cultivation of rice as a dietary staple, in Dakar, rain is typically limited to once or twice a week, for perhaps an hour.
Many of our rainy-season storms turn into hurricanes as they cross the Atlantic and head towards the Americas (perhaps the name "Katrina" rings a bell?). I sometimes feel oddly guilty that we've sent such destruction back home.
What Dakar lacks in rain, it makes up for in humidity, which, like the temperature, is often in the 80s.
History
Long ago, Senegal was part of the great, ancient Ghana Empire (unrelated to modern-day Ghana).
In the 17th century, European nations began colonization efforts which would last nearly 300 years. During the latter portion of this period, Senegal was dominated by France.
On June 20, 1960, French Senegal and the former French Sudan combined to create the independent Mali Federation. The Federation ended two months later with the creation of the Republic of Senegal and the Republic of Mali on August 22, 1960. (For reasons I've yet to discover, Senegalese Independence Day is celebrated April 4.)
From 1982 to 1989, Senegal merged with Gambia, the English-speaking nation which it surrounds on three sides, to form Senegambia.
Despite some inter-tribal rivalries, the Senegalese are known for the high priority they place on peace and cooperation. Independence was won peacefully, and has been maintained for nearly 50 years by duly-elected and re-elected presidents, with almost no political violence. Members of the Senegalese military are respected members of UN peace-keeping forces around the world.
In the 17th century, European nations began colonization efforts which would last nearly 300 years. During the latter portion of this period, Senegal was dominated by France.
On June 20, 1960, French Senegal and the former French Sudan combined to create the independent Mali Federation. The Federation ended two months later with the creation of the Republic of Senegal and the Republic of Mali on August 22, 1960. (For reasons I've yet to discover, Senegalese Independence Day is celebrated April 4.)
From 1982 to 1989, Senegal merged with Gambia, the English-speaking nation which it surrounds on three sides, to form Senegambia.
Despite some inter-tribal rivalries, the Senegalese are known for the high priority they place on peace and cooperation. Independence was won peacefully, and has been maintained for nearly 50 years by duly-elected and re-elected presidents, with almost no political violence. Members of the Senegalese military are respected members of UN peace-keeping forces around the world.
Every Tribe and Tongue
Africa's social structure is largely organized along ethnic (tribal) lines. At least 20 tribes, speaking 36 distinct languages, are represented in Senegal's population of 12 million, some 3 million of whom live in the capital city, Dakar. The largest of the tribes are listed below, with estimates of their proportion in the population.
Wolof (WUHL-uhf).............35%
Pulaar (poo-LAHR).............20%
Serer (suh-RAIR)...............17%
Diola (JOE-luh).................10%
The Wolof are present throughout the country, and, while French is the language of government, Wolof is the language used across tribal divisions in business and friendship.
I was told by a Senegalese friend that the country name SENEGAL is derived from "sunu gaal" (SOON-you GAHL), the Wolof words for "my boat." The story goes that, in an early and confused conversation between some Frenchmen and some Wolof fisherman, neither of whom knew the others' language, the Frenchmen asked a question about where they were, and fishermen thought they were asking about their boat.
Wolof (WUHL-uhf).............35%
Pulaar (poo-LAHR).............20%
Serer (suh-RAIR)...............17%
Diola (JOE-luh).................10%
The Wolof are present throughout the country, and, while French is the language of government, Wolof is the language used across tribal divisions in business and friendship.
I was told by a Senegalese friend that the country name SENEGAL is derived from "sunu gaal" (SOON-you GAHL), the Wolof words for "my boat." The story goes that, in an early and confused conversation between some Frenchmen and some Wolof fisherman, neither of whom knew the others' language, the Frenchmen asked a question about where they were, and fishermen thought they were asking about their boat.
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© Jay Sappington.
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photographs, copyright
© Jay Sappington.
All rights reserved.