Friday, December 28, 2007

On the 7th Day of (my) Christmas

FRIDAY DECEMBER 21

This was a packed day! It started with birdwatching near the cabin in the morning. I saw numerous species not listed in my Birds of West Africa; and others that are listed, but not indicated as living in Guinea. And I have pictures to prove (some of) my sightings! Unfortunately, the quality of most of the photos is pretty poor, but they still should help with identification. Here's a fire finch perched on the end of a cinnamon tree trunk.

Then, Jim and I and three-year-old Hannah began a sight-seeing tour of the area. It started at the Dalaba visitor's center, a hut packed with local crafts and other items of interest, including this Hannah-sized, stuffed leopard skin. I almost succeeded in playing a reed flute like the one with which I was serenaded at the market yesterday, and the Center Director almost succeeded in getting me to buy one, but we couldn't agree on a price.



The next stop was the French colonial governor's compound, including a traditional "cassa des palabres" or House of Words. Built in 1936 using traditional mud construction, with beautiful geometric patterns formed in the floor, walls, and (before it collapsed from lack of care) the roof, the governor met here with important indigenous leaders to discuss political matters. A special place for each cheikh' (chief's) chair is marked in the wall--you may be able to make out two of these on either side of the door in this picture). It was here, in 1958, that incoming dictator Sekou Tourre convinced other national leaders to oust the French upon declaring independence--a move from which the country has never recovered.

Finally, we went to a beautiful lake where friends took me birdwatching in their canoe. I saw more stunning sights (including a large kingfisher with irredescent green back, wings, and throat; white breast; huge orange and black beak; and gray head), and took more terrible photos, the single exception being the birdless one at left.